Movie Tech. Disc. 6 - Building Middle-earth: Costumes

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Ngila Dickson grew up with a passion for clothing. When she was growing up it was the tradition in New Zealand for everyone to make her own clothes, and her mother was a fabulous seamstress. She also developed a passion for photography, words and books, and writing. In my opinion, she is also a terrific artist. At one period, sometime in the eighties, she ran her own fashion magazine called Cha-Cha, which combined clothing with photography, and at the same time was making clothes. She also used to sell clothes.

In 1989 she was offered a job working on the movie User Friendly and she found that working in the movie industry was what she really wanted to do. One of the movies she later worked on was Heavenly Creatures, directed by Peter Jackson. She was working on Xena and Hercules when she was told by Richard Taylor that Peter Jackson would really like her to come and work on The Lord of the Rings.

To design a costume for any particular character, Dickson would first look at all the different images that were available for that character and talk with Peter Jackson about the character. Next she would do a costume drawing.

"A costume drawing may appear to be the same kind of drawing as any other illustrator’s, but, in fact, if you are a good costume designer, you are telling a pattern maker how to make the costume through that drawing. They should be able to tell how to make the costume through that drawing. They should be able to tell how you want it constructed by that drawing." (1)

"Generally, I believe that when you go wrong with a costume, it is because you strayed from your drawing. If your drawing is right, and you feel really good about it, and it is what everyone agreed on, you will often find that the costume only goes wrong when you stop looking at that drawing. You’ll be looking at the fitting and saying, ‘Something is wrong with this.’ I will ask to see the drawing, and we’ll have it up on the board, and we’ll all look at it and go, ‘That’s what is wrong!’ It will be some element that hasn’t been done strictly according to the drawing. Sometimes, an actor is so completely different from what you envisioned that character to be that you really do have to rethink things. But, usually, I don’t like to design a costume until I know who the actor is. My drawings are very much like portraits of the actors." (2)

The costume drawing would then go to the wardrobe supervisor who would construct a calico of the costume. A calico is a costume made of just a very plain piece of fabric so that you can look at it on a costume dummy and see how the construction comes together. If everything looks O.K., the costume is made up in the proper fabric. If that looks O.K., it is then sent off to be dyed. The costume might go through a lengthy process of over-dying in order to get just the right quality of color. Over-dying is also part of the aging process. Afterwards, more physical aging might be required, such as scuffing hemlines, adding stains, darkening some parts, or fading out others. In the middle of all of this, with any luck, you get to have the actor put the costume on, and you might have to adjust the costume to the actor. This whole process might take up to six weeks, depending on the costume.

"Dickson used natural fabrics such as velvet, cotton, wool and linen so the costumes would wear incredibly well. ‘As soon as you get something that’s man made, you’re never going to get that look," she explains. "We worked those fabrics hard. No piece of fabric went on to a sewing machine that hadn’t been washed as many times as we could possibly put it through. And we dyed almost everything. The dye-house worked night and day. That’s another group of people who worked so amazingly hard, you can’t imagine. Dying is such an organic process and it’s so hard to be consistent with colours. You know, we’d go to them, We need another Frodo coat, exactly the same colour as the one from four months ago . . . It’s enough to bring tears to anyone’s eyes." (3)

"I think the reality is that both Richard [Taylor] and I are aware that you don’t know what the hell Peter’s going to do next. So the answer to that is be prepared for everything. And part of that is to be prepared for someone to say all of a sudden – Peter will say, ‘Wells, no, take that armor off’ or ‘Take that top off and we’ll do something where you look a lot more relaxed.’ If you haven’t made that whole under-part of the costume work, then you’re standing there going ‘Um . . . ’ One thing that none of us ever wanted to do was say no to Peter." (4)
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Some interesting links:
http://www.theonering.net/scrapbook/view/9434
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ngila_Dickson
http://alleycatscratch.com/lotr/

As you probably know, Arwen’s Daughter has been doing a series of terrific discussions on some of the individual costumes that I have been enjoying a lot. It is absolutely fascinating to see the detail and workmanship that has gone into each and every one of them. Thank you, Arwen’s Daughter, for a close-up look at these beautiful costumes. I am looking forward to the next one.

I think everyone has an idea of how the costumes for the Hobbits, Elves, Dwarfs, and Orcs should look in the Hobbit movie. That leaves the men of Lake Town. What should their costumes be like?

In LOTR, the costuming of the Rivendell Elves was different from the Lothlorien Elves. How different do you think the Mirkwood Elves’ costumes should be from the Rivendell and Lothlorien Elves?

Is anyone into or does anyone have experience with costume-making in any capacity? Got any pictures? Got any good stories?

OhioHobbit wanted me (Alcarcalime) to include my costuming experience. I always made costumes for my children for Halloween. My favorite costume was a Roman soldier I made for my son when he was 9. The helmet is a WWII play helmet painted silver with a cardboard visor and chin straps and a red broom head glued to the top. His tunic is one of his father’s tee shirts with a red band sewed on. The red leather "skirt" is leather strips dyed red (I was doing leather work at this time and had pieces of cow hide around). The breast plate is a piece of cardboard that I cut to the shape I wanted. I made the design with white glue and painted the armor silver when the glue was dry. The cloak was a piece of red fabric. He had sandals on that I threaded with leather ties. The shield started out life as a piece of stove pipe. His dad cut it the right size and I painted it brown with a silver design. He was quite pleased with his costume. He always wanted his costumes to be realistic. When he was about 5, he wanted to be a hobo with an eye hanging out, so I put a bandage around his head covering one eye. I put red paint on it and pinned a ping-pong ball on a cut rubber band to the underside. I painted the ping-pong ball with a brown iris to look like his other eye. He loved it and didn’t want to take it off. Funny thing, at 35, he still hasn’t outgrown gory stuff.
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Sources:
1. The Lord of the Rings Fan Club Official Movie Magazine, #3, ( pgs.58-67
)
2. The Lord of the Rings Fan Club Official Movie Magazine, #4, (pgs.54-63
)
3.
Http://lilithlotr.ejwsites.net/articles/pavement/ngila.htm
4
. The Frodo Franchise, Kristin Thompson, pg. 79
 
The Jewelry designer for LOTR was Jasmine Watson. She had always been interested in jewelry and both of her parents are artists. Her older sister graduated from art school a couple of years ahead of her and is a costume designer. She went to design school for four years and majored in jewelry design. After graduation she went to work on Hercules and Xena.

"I worked on those series for about four years with costume designer Ngila Dickson. So when she got the job for The Lord of the Rings, I was actually about to apply [to work on the films]. I had gone into her office on a Friday afternoon and confessed that I really wanted to work on The Lord of the Rings and was going to apply for a job - pretty much saying I may be leaving and feeling slightly guilty about it. On the following Monday, she made the announcement that she had in fact gotten the job as costume designer and then offered me the job of jewelry designer. So I was incredibly lucky." (1)

In designing a piece of jewelry, Watson would get her initial briefing from Ngila Dickson and Alan Lee. It was then up to her to come up with the design, basing it on what was discussed with Dickson and Lee and on Tolkien’s descriptions. That design would then go to Peter Jackson for approval. She had a team that varied from one person to five people, depending on how much jewelry was coming up that week, that she would coordinate to construct the jewelry. A typical example is the Elven brooch.

"We started off by finalizing the design that Ngila and I agreed was the best - that was in fact the one that actually Peter agreed was the best. So that was nice and easy. We went forward, and I then made a half dozen little mock-ups and painted them green and tried them on Elijah at his [costume] fitting with the cloak just of check the size. It sounds very basic, but that’s a very effective way of ruling out any problems before you get to the metal stage. To make the Eleven brooch, I used a very, very thick sheet of pure silver and cut out the leaf shape and then slightly shaped it from behind to give it the contour, just the slight curve of the leaf, like the natural form of a leaf. And then I engraved the top surface quite deeply, leaving an edge right around the outside because I knew I would be filling it with green resin. Once I engraved the top, I obviously got literally hundreds of those cast, while at the same time, enlarging my pattern by a third and reducing my pattern by a third, and so doing a version for the big scale double and the smaller scale double, because everything was done in three sizes. That always meant a trip down to the photocopier to get it really accurate. Then I engraved the top surface - it is actually really, really fine engraving. All of the tiny veins are engraved, and then you lay the resin on top, so that you can in fact see the tiny veins through it. And then, I also attached the wires and things. I think we made 80 Eleven brooches in the beginning, and that wasn’t including [the ones we made for] most of the riding doubles and fighting doubles and the river doubles that would actually go down the river and quite possibly get lost. I really made literally hundreds of them." (1.)
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Does anyone make jewelry? When you see jewelry in a store or catalog, do you classify it to yourself as looking Elvish or not? Do you have any jewelry from the movies?

Sources:
1. The Lord of the Rings Fan Club Official Movie Magazine, #10, ( pgs 56-65
)
 
That was quite an experience when I finally had watched the movies enough to tear me away from the storyline itself; at first I didn't look so closely. But even the first look was great, and when I finally had more time to appreciate the costumes - and of course, later in the extras - I was truly amazed to how much lengths they have gone to give the costumes the right look. And I appreciate it even more because I know that I couldn't have made even the simplest one - I'm absolutely hopeless when it comes to sewing. The only needles I have use for are knitting needles ;-)

The detail - as is true of so many other things - was amazing. So much of it was barely recognisable on the screen, and still, they did it. I loved the idea of creating an own style for every race, and not so much because it made them more distinguishable, but because it just seemed so right and logical that every culture had their own style. Ngila and her team put so much thought into these things!

Wasn't on one of the extra DVD (TTT or maybe RotK) something that they put the device of Rohan *inside* of Theoden's armour or costume (hm, I have to watch these again, but I don't have them at hand now) to give him the right *feeling* - even if nobody other than Bernard Hill and a handful of helpers ever saw it? That was one of these things that left me rather speechless in the face of so much thought to the detail - or should I say, geekiness? [;)]

As for the elves of Mirkwood ... I'd expect something along the lines of what Legolas was wearing, at least the warriors. Thranduil probably something more elegant, of course. And somehow I see them mostly in green.
Hm, weren't at the Council of Elrond some elves that looked like they were from Mirkwood? In the background sat some blondes I always thought of as Legolas' companions. Didn't he held them back when the argument broke out?

And Alcarcalime did a great job with this Roman costume - I'm impressed!
 
Even so, the costuming here has gone way beyond even The Lord of the Rings. And Weta has out done themselves. The sword, the bow, the quiver, the detail, it is all just…just…well it just is. [:)]
 
The level of detail in these still astounds me! And the thought process that went into them. For instance, Arwen and Eowyn both wear velvets, but Eowyn only wears cotton velvet, which is stiffer and tougher, while Arwen and the elves wear silk velvet, which is more delicate and much plusher. The way that Ngila used certain color groups on certain people and races as well as certain fabrics and certain patterns, I love the amount of thought she put into these.

I know that Arwen was a particular challenge because they changed her storyline halfway through the movies. Because of this, they had to invent new costumes during filming. I remember hearing Ngila say that they would make three costumes for Liv, full costumes, let PJ choose one, and put the other two on background elves!

And the aging process got more difficult as they went. Frodo and Sam's costumes in ROTK, for instance, had to include a dozen or so shirts that were all aged to the same level. So that if they tore them on set, or added more dirt, or whatever it was, they had to tell the wardrobe house exactly what they had done so that the other shirts could be made to match them exactly.

I think everyone has an idea of how the costumes for the Hobbits, Elves, Dwarfs, and Orcs should look in the Hobbit movie. That leaves the men of Lake Town. What should their costumes be like?
This is really a tough question. My own thought would be to go with basic Medieval tunics and pants, but I think that's too obvious. Whatever the filmmakers decide to do, I'm sure it will be more interesting than what I could come up with!

In LOTR, the costuming of the Rivendell Elves was different from the Lothlorien Elves. How different do you think the Mirkwood Elves’ costumes should be from the Rivendell and Lothlorien Elves?
This is a question that I really want to see answered. The Rivendell elves were in autumn colors and the Lothlorien elves in suble blues and greens and silvers. My guess is that they'll want the Mirkwood elves in darker, more menacing colors, but also try to keep in mind Legolas' green and leafy costume. I wonder if they'll have seperate costume styles for Ranger-elves and Court-elves? That would make sense, I think. And it would allow them to incorporate Legolas' style and Elrond's style.

Is anyone into or does anyone have experience with costume-making in any capacity? Got any pictures? Got any good stories?
You can see my Eowyn gown here. It was my first costume. In fact, I learned to sew because of LOTR! I've been making costumes ever since.

As you probably know, Arwen’s Daughter has been doing a series of terrific discussions on some of the individual costumes that I have been enjoying a lot. It is absolutely fascinating to see the detail and workmanship that has gone into each and every one of them. Thank you, Arwen’s Daughter, for a close-up look at these beautiful costumes. I am looking forward to the next one.
Aw, thanks. [blush] I'm just glad you guys enjoy looking at these costumes as much as I do!


These posts are fantastic. Keep them coming! And I love your son's Roman costume. Homemade costumes were always my favorite as a kid [:)]
 
I ever bought costumes for my children. Partly because with the way they grew, it was a one shot deal, and because it was safer without a mask over his or her face. I did use "Family Circle Magazine" and "Woman's Day" magazine for ideas.
 
That costume took me about a year to make. Most of that time was spent worrying over the patterns and the mock-up because I had very little idea what I was doing. I worried over every little step and made more than a few mistakes with it, but I have to say that it's my favorite thing that I've made so far.
 
How 'bout this costuming???


300px-Robinhoodstill.jpg
 
What I really enjoy about the Hobbit costumes is how there is a bigger version, and a smaller version. The fact that the costume makers were able to make two different copies of the costumes right down to the same details just amazes me. On that note, I like the patterns on the vests for the Hobbits. They seem to really capture the nature motif of the Hobbits in my eyes. I love it! [:)]
 
Yikes, these people did a lot of work!

I really like the design of the elven brooch pins -- that silver sort of loop that goes around it is a nice touch.

It's interesting to read how people found their way into the Fellowship of the Films. Did they ever even place any want-ads for any of these jobs? It just seems that people just applied, or offered to help, or whatever...!
 
Can you imagine being one of the people who had to make sure they got the colors exactly right like that? And not just once, but many, many times? They move up on my list of unsung heros, right next to that guy who made the chainmail by hand or the people who made Denethor's sword that we never even see...

I love that photo of N. Dickson -- here's this woman who makes all these elaborate costumes and she's dressed in basic black. But she looks great in it -- she's definitely a class act.

Reading this makes me think just what "would" happen if you said no to Peter Jackson? He doesn't sound like the kind of guy who would go ballistic on you...my guess is that no one wanted to disappoint him, and that the focus on the set was always "how CAN we do this?" and not on "we can't because...". Jackson seems to have inspired people to find a way to get people to stretch themselves to higher levels of achievement -- people were no doubt mad and frustrated at different points, but no one ever seems to give up.

It's interesting also to read about how important the drawing is to the creation of a costume -- I can see where that would help you keep your focus. It must be fun to see something take form like that, going from a sketch to a "calico" (that's a new one for me) to the real costume and then to seeing it worn by the actor.

Looking at the finished costumes, they don't look like props -- they seem to carry the personalities of the characters with them. Those aren't just costumes -- those are Frodo's clothes, etc!

Kind of makes me respect the contents of my laundry basket a bit more...

Thanks for another interesting lesson!
 
Speaking as someone who never got past making Barbie doll clothes, I am impressed.

Do you just make costumes or sew for fun? I would bet a local theater group would kill to find out about you -- you are really good!
 
I don't think that I thought very much about the costumes the first time through, either. It was kind of like I thought subconsciously, "Well, of course that is how the Hobbits would look, and of course that is how the Elves would look." Everything just seemed right.

That was one of these things that left me rather speechless in the face of so much thought to the detail - or should I say, geekiness?

I think that Geekiness is exactly the right word. these movies were made by fans.

Hmm, I never thought about the Elves at the Council of Elrond. I think that you might have something there.
 
I would dearly love to own a vest like one of those. I particularly like the color of Bilbo's and the quilting pattern on Merry's.

What amazes me is that even the scale of the fabric weave is different between the large and small costumes.
 
I wonder if I can program a key on my keyboard to automatically insert, "Wow!" I could really use it. Your gown is fantastic! And I love all of the information and detail that you have there. If that was your first costume, I can't imagine where you went from there.

One reason that I admire things like this so much is because garment making is a big mystery to me. Alcarcalime told me about her mother's mother. Her daughters would go through the Sears & Roebuck catalog and say that they liked this skirt, that top, those sleeves, and that collar, and she would make the patterns out of newspaper and make whatever they wanted. It is all just beyond me.
 
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